Repoussé, Chasing
& Art Sheet Metal Working
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Rev. 2004-10-29, 2005-01-31, 2006-07-09, 2007-01-02. -07-10
Sheet metal for art work is considerably different from
sheet metal for modern uses that were developed since the industrial revolution.
Art sheet metal working in gold, silver, pewter, brass and copper includes
repoussé and raising while modern sheet metal working is mostly duct work which
is folding and
body work (like on autos) which includes rolling to shape.
Repoussé is hammering
and using punches on the back of sheet metal with punches to put
patterns and designs in the metal. The best source of information is silver smithing
books. It is normally done by working against a moderately soft pitch
(pine pitch or asphalt) body which allows but controls the metal's movement.
The pitch may be inside the metal for forming a bowl shape or outside in a
separate container for forming flatter (shield) shapes. In the montage
right are home made tools ground in drill rod, the image used and the result of
my first working with repoussé on brass sheet. I bought pitch from
Northwest Pitchworks and made a working
surface by melting it into a small cast iron fry pan.
Chasing is working the design from the front, normally to add
detail or to refine the shapes produced by repoussé. (It is also used for
the finishing work done on cast sculptures.)
Sinking is forming metal by hammering it against a shape or using
tools to form the metal. The shape might be a dome or a bowl or an outline
of a more complex form. The tools can be anvils or specialized spring
shapes that rebound to form through openings. The metal normally becomes
thinner as it is stretched into shape.
Glossary of
sheet metal working.
Raising is forming metal by hammering repeatedly off an anvil so
it tends to bend and fold, but working the bends before the fold to hammer it
down into itself, thus becoming thicker. As strange as it seems to me at
times, by increasing the thickness you make a bowl close in around its center.
Chasing on Internet
Commercial sheet metal working is divided into folding and
seaming used in air conditioning duct work sheetmtl.htm and body work used in repair and
reconditioning autos and airplanes. There are a number of heavy tools used
in these fields including shears for cutting, brakes for bending, English wheels
for curving as in making fenders. Air conditioning sheet is invariably
galvanized steel. Body work sheet is normally plain weldable steel.
Irvan-Smith
Inc. - English Wheels
English Wheel: Information
From Answers.com
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http://www.loneprairie.net/Education/image_transfer_techniq.htm
ink jet printer image transfer I- a method for water based ink jet
image transfers [MF note: now that inkjet inks are becoming more
waterproof, this may no longer work as well. 2006-07-09]
Materials:
- a brightly colored ink jet printed image on HP Colorfast Photo paper
(glossy)
- warm water
- iron
- cotton rag paper (to transfer image to)
- towel
Steps:
- Print image to glossy photo paper.
- Dip into tray of warm water for 5-10 seconds
- Cover with a towel and iron for about 10 seconds.
This method was given to me over email. "It produces an interesting
transfer with rich colors and sometimes adds an unusual texture."
ink jet printer image transfer II- a method for water based ink jet
image transfers
Materials:
- a brightly colored ink jet printed image on lightweight paper (24 lbs. or
less) - it will not work if you have printed your image onto specially coated
inkjet paper; plain paper must be used
- rubbing alcohol
- clean cloth or cotton ball
Steps:
- Lightly dampen the paper you will be transferring the image onto with the
rubbing alcohol using a clean cloth or cotton ball.
- Quickly arrange your printed image on top of this dampened area, image
(ink) side down. Do only one image at a time.
- Wet a clean cloth or cotton ball with rubbing alcohol, and begin to rub
the back of image until you see evidence of ink coming through the backside.
- Let your image dry.
Note: I have been experimenting with ways to use my ink jet printer as part
of my art. This is the transfer method that I have come up with so far. I have
tried a variety of methods and substances, but I seem to get the best results
with rubbing alcohol. Having said that, I have to say that I am not fully
satisfied with the resulting image transfer, as it is very faint, not detailed,
and has a harshness about its color. I also do not expect it to be light-fast.
I am still experimenting with different ways to use the ink jet images. If
anyone out there has, for some reason, come upon a better method, please
share it with me.
Contact Mike Firth